''This is an aggressive strong ale. You probably won't like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth.'' It goes on to berate folks for a few more sentences.

Now that's braggadocio.

Stone Brewing, based in San Marcos, Calif., and a mere 7 years old, has quickly established itself as a craft brewery to be reckoned with -- and not just because of its in-your-face marketing. It is one of Inc. magazine's 500 fastest growing companies nationwide and its brews, including Stone IPA, Stone Pale Ale and Stone Smoked Porter, are well-received on such snooty Web sites as Ratebeer.com and BeerAdvocate.com.

The company moved into New York City earlier this year and now has an eye on conquering the entire state. Chairman and CEO Greg Koch loaded up a rented Ford Escape with beer and criss-crossed upstate last week searching for possible distributors and meeting with beer enthusiasts.

We caught up with him at MacGregor's Grill and Tap Room in Henrietta. Apparently, much of Stone Brewing's confidence flows from Koch, 39 -- an engaging fella with blond highlights in his hair, a soul patch, designer eyeglasses and a serious, serious 'tude about beer. What else would you expect from a guy whose company logo is a gargoyle and whose motto is: ''Fizzy yellow beer is for wussies.''

But is he really an arrogant bastard?

''That's Mr. Arrogant Bastard,'' Koch laughs in response to the question. Then he pauses. ''Yeah, but I have to admit I'm a fairly good-natured bastard at that.''

His own arrogance really kicks in when it comes to beer.

''There are so many ways to do beer right and I have no patience for people who do it wrong.''

He won't name anybody doing it wrong, instead poking fun at light beers and mass-produced beers that use adjuncts, such as corn or rice. (Think Budweiser, Miller, Coors and other yellow brews.)

Stone Brewing is doing it right, obviously. The company was started in 1996 by two guys (Koch and Steve Wagner) who met in the music business and talked and talked and talked about opening up a brewery before actually doing it. Today, Stone Brewing has 55 employees and can be found in 17 states.

Revenue, which now tops

$4 million, jumped 45 percent last year, Koch says, and that was a slow year for growth.

''It's because we've learned to do what we do very well,'' he says. ''We make big beers very well and we present them in a consistent way.''

By big beers, Koch means taste. A lot of it. He refuses to describe the flavor of Arrogant Bastard Ale, other than saying it's ''angry.''

''I really feel people should make up their own minds,'' he says.

He's not kidding about the angry part. This beer -- a hop head's dream -- grabs onto your tastebuds and won't let go. Think of the hoppiest beer you've ever had and then add some more hop flavor. Add the fact that it has a hefty alcohol content of 7.2 percent and you could swap the Arrogant for Drunken. (The Stone Smoked Porter also has a terrific smoky flavor. We've yet to try the other offerings.)

As for when Stone Brewing will surface in the Rochester area, Koch says no one can be sure the sun will come up tomorrow. Then, upon reflection, he admits that was a pretty arrogant response.